Monterey - Whales and Wings

An amazing week in and around Monterey, California with Naturetrek Wildlife Holidays.   With five whale watching trips, the Big Sur drive and Moss Landing it was a packed week ………  so no apologies for this being a longer post than normal with too many photos!!  If you want to save time, stop reading now!




On arrival at San Francisco airport (and getting through the dreaded immigration/passport control) I met up with the rest of the group ready for the drive to Carmel Valley where we were staying.  I managed to stay awake long enough to gaze out as we passed Silicon Valley………  and so to bed!!

Carmel Valley is about a 30 minute drive from Monterey so time to appreciate the courtesy of American drivers, the 'thank you' signs to Firefighters (more later) before we parked up by the marina.  Monterey is larger than I expected - shades of Steinbeck still lingering - and now more like a millionaires playground with a big tourist industry built around whale watching and the sea.  Fishermans wharf, from which the whale trips set out, was rather reminiscent of Bridlington - food and gift shops only sunnier and warmer!  


After boarding our boat  - a catamaran called the Blackfin - on leaving the harbour we had our first experience of the sound and smell of the Californian Sea Lions -sharing the harbour breakwater with Brandts and Pelagic Cormorants, before heading out to sea looking for the elusive Blue Whale (and others!).  Plenty of Humpbacks but no Blue, Sooty Shearwaters by the thousand (send some round to Flamborough please!); Sea Otters entertained us in the harbour - as did the Surfdog.  The afternoon included the '17 mile drive' looking for birds along the shore line as we drove past the houses on what can only be called Billionaires Row and Pebble Beach (no sightings of Clint Eastwood though as we passed Carmel).  It was rather stunning to realise that Carmel is actually Carmel-by-the-Sea - shades of British seaside resorts!!.


                            the marina                                          fishermans wharf  -  9am!


Monterey's answer to the Gansey Girl of Bridlington??

The boats….  Blackfin and Sea Wolf

                 Home from home - Guillemots                            Elegant Tern

Sea Lions on the Breakwater                                                              Stellars jay



Loved this sequence of a Brown Pelican - aborted landing???


Humpback Whale Lunge feeding

Black-footed Albatross

                            Heerman's Gull                                  Californian Ground Squirrel
                   

Surf-dog!!
It wasn't so much the fact she had a dog on her paddle-board - but that it had a life-jacket!!  Mind you we also saw a guy with a Cockatoo on his boat (but was it real???)

Day two and another boat trip  - this time both morning and afternoon -  still no Blue Whale although spouts were seen - but 'fluking' Humpbacks and Common Dolphins - and plenty of sun!!  Although quite difficult to photograph (as I know from the Yorkshire Belle), there were thousands of Sooty Shearwaters, new to be were Black-vented and Pink Footed both of which were more obliging


Black-vented Shearwater

Pink-footed Shearwater




                          Sea Lion at play                             Brandts Cormorant

                      
                          Fluke (Humpback)                        Common Dolphin

Black-footed Albatross


And the birdwatching around the hotel wasn't too bad either


                              Chickadee                                      Oak Titmouse

Bewick's Wren??

Anna's Hummingbird

Acorn Woodpecker


Day three saw us setting of on the Big Sur drive - claiming to be the most beautiful drive in America (if not the world!).   The California Pacific Highway (or Highway 1) winds down the coast known as the Big Sur region  stretching 90 miles ending at San Simeon (famous for Hearst Castle).  It passes several state parks and a great deli for sandwiches - we stopped.  There are plentiful vista (viewpoints) and the views were fantastic despite some sea fret or maybe because of.   For the Mini enthusiasts amongst us I counted at least 14 - and what a great road for a Mini!!   However the winner of the car bingo had to be Mustang convertibles - almost every other car - and most with the passenger holding a video camera out of the window.  

A forest fire was (is) burning in the Ventana Wilderness of the Los Padres National Forest,  and area’s south of the Carmel Valley along with areas surrounding Big Sur. At the time of writing the fire is currently at 108,031 acres and the containment is showing 55%.   Hence the sightings of several temporary camp sites for the firefighters who are mainly volunteers as we drove along.  The fire was started July 22, 2016 by an illegal, unattended campfire on the Soberanes Canyon trail in the Garrapata State Park.  The fire had threatened the cities of Carmel and Monterey hence the thank you signs on the road side - my favourite was 'Firefighters - you dudes rock'!!


The fire meant helicopters over the Condor roost, but reasonable (best I have had!) views of one plus a Golden Eagle were had.  Our destination was an Elephant Seal colony who even have their own newspaper and some very helpful volunteers to assist with our questions as we watched a large male pull himself on to the beach scattering anyone who got in his way.  The journey home included a stop for ice-cream and provided  some photo opportunities as Monarch butterflies fluttered around the gardens.



Stellars Jay
Northern Elephant seal at rest




Red -shouldered Hawk (I think)                                                         Turkey Vulture (or TV!!)
                                          Monarch Butterfly


The Big Sur……



Brixby Bridge as seen in too many commercials to mention - and the road ahead!



Day four and back on the boat - and today was the day, not only the worlds largest mammal - the Blue Whale - but also the second largest - the Finn Whale, more Humpbacks performing and Risso's Dolphin on the way back.  And boy is that Blue Whale big - apparently the tongue weighs as much as an elephant - that says it all!!  One actually came between two of the boats as we watched trying (and failing) to get a picture of the whole beast!! Just to have actually seen one though………..  To calm down from the excitement of the morning the afternoon meant a drive up Carmel Valley in search of the Yellow-billed Magpie - which we found - temperatures in the high 30s (it hit 42 at one point) had us grateful for the shade (yes, even me!).



Breaching Humpbacks







and the Fin Whale……  



and the big one - the Blue Whale







                                          Yellow-billed magpie


Day five and we headed for Moss Landing - the ah cute day as we found the Sea Otters, mothers and cubs at one side, males lounging (snoring??) on the other.  A bit reminiscent of birding aound Teeside, industry merging with nature…..A highlight (!) of the day was finding (well, the guide did - thanks Peter) the Pacific Tree Frog - about 2cm or less in length and (very) well camouflaged   No birding holiday can be complete without a visit to either a tip or sewage farm - we chose the farm (not sewage) and enjoyed a pleasant stroll identifying waders and being lucky enough to spot Western and Clark's Grebes together!  It's all very well learning the differences but which belongs to which!!




Pacific Tree Frog



Osprey

Marsh Wren

Virginia Rail - so secretive Peter nearly stood on it….

and Sea Otters at work (feeding the young 'un), rest and play




                            Marbled Godwit                               Snowy Egret


and more Sea Otters…...


Brewers Blackbird


                            Fox Squirrel                                      Willet showing its best side

                                          Clark's (to rear) and Western Grebes


                                          Least Sandpiper



Day six meant the last day - so our final boat trip…..   but what a trip - surrounded by Humpback Whales at one point, Blue Whales and another Fin Whale.  Lucky enough to see a Blue Whale lunging albeit distant if near enough to see the size of the mouth!  We ended with a Humpback circling the boat and diving directly in front - wowee!!




                                          Phalaropes

                            Humpback waving                            rear view of Blue Whale




The afternoon was restful with a visit to the famous Monterey Bay Aquarium enjoying some photo shoots with the jelly fish amongst other famous fish!!  The Aquarium is located at the end of Cannery Row which retains some of the industrial atmosphere although somewhat more upmarket now!   It was fun looking at the coral reef with all the adults going - I've found Nemo!!  - whilst the kids looked on with puzzlement….  Visiting aquariums (like zoos) can be confusing, however this one was fun, I only wish my Gt Nephew Cammy was  accompanying then I wouldn't have felt so silly colouring in fish on a computer screen!  There was also a chance for some retail therapy in the many shops  - yes a Sea Otter did somehow find its way into my bag!!   Then it was back to the hotel to get ready for a meal out (great fried Kalamari) to pack and bed…..




and a Mini on Cannery Row!!




Meeting the other star of 'Big Blue' - Makena - the resident Laysan Albatross - who is unable to fly.  The perfect star for a session on how plastics pollution causes so much damage.  Mind you it was also the first time I had heard of taking a re-usable straw to a restaurant!!



                            Dory and Nemo are no longer missing!!

                                          Photography opportunity with the jelly fish...



What a week!!  Been there, done it - and want to do it again!!

3 comments:

  1. Lovely blog Chrys, sounds like you had a fabulous time and super photos :-)

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  2. There's always something different to photograph each year. You'll have to come back

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    Replies
    1. I will!! Even if have to drive the minibus!!

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